ProECU-K

Q: How long will it take to get my ECU converted to ProECU-K?
A: We need usually 1-2 business days to convert the ECU to ProECU-K. Not included is the shipping time which
    depends on your location and the used carrier and shipping method.

Q: I have a ECU witch is already modified with a Ho***ta (or other piggy pack tuning system), can this be used
    for ProECU-K, too?
A: Yes, we can upgrade already modified ECU's to ProECU-K, too.

Q: What means "Budget Version" of ProECU-K?
A: The Budget Version of ProECU-K is a full featured, fully working PRA or PRB ECU just in a type "C" ECU case
    (see picture). The ECU will not be shipped in the black box, because it just does not fit inside.
    The "C" type ECU and no box makes the ECU kit cheaper.

Q: What is the difference between the PRA and PRB ECUs?
A: The difference between the PRA and PRB ECU is mainly the primary O2 sensor input.
    The PRA ECU uses a narrowband O2 sensor, the PRB a semi wideband sensor.
    The ECU hardware is different between the two ECUs, you can determine which primary O2 sensor it uses by
     looking a the ECU's board.
     If the ECU has this black box (in the red circle) it is for use with the semi wideband, if this place is empty it is
     for narrowband o2 sensor.

Q: I just installed the ECU but the Water temperature on the Gauge cluster and the Air Condition does not work!?
A: The Multiplexer needs to be enabled. You can find it under Editor->Features->Multiplexer

Q: How it install a external Wideband to ProECU-K?
A: We have a write up here for download.

Q: I opened the ECU and found a wire not connected?
A: That's ok. The blue wire is only needed for the recovery flash. See more about this topic here. [LINK]

Q: How to make the air condition working in a swapped car?
A: With the installation of ProECU-K we enabled the AC request input on pin E28.
    Connect the AC request signal of the car (switching to ground) to the pin E28.
    In the software you just have to take care that the input E28 isn't used for any
    other function and the multiplexer is disabled.
    The AC clutch relay has to be connected to pin E18.

Q: I cannot communicate with the ECU?
Q: I cannot upload a calibration to the ECU?
Q: I'm getting a Error Code 4/1x when uploading to the ECU!?
A: The ECU shares internal the signals for communication between the OBD2 port and the USB connection.
    One can disturb the other.
    Make sure that nothing is connected to the OBD2 port, like a code scanner, ELM327, dyno, etc.
    If this does not help, you can try to disconnect the K-Line (the communication line) from the ECU by unpinning
    (or cutting) the wire E23.
    Other control units which shares the K-Line can disturb the communication, too.
    This often happens in swapped cars and S2000's.

Q: The upload went wrong and now the ECU stuck in limp home mode, what to do?
A: To get out of the limp home mode make a recovery flash.
    If you have communication problems or this caused the ECU to stuck in the limp mode first check the topic about
    communication problems.

    Two methods to do a recovery flash.

    Method 1 (with opening the ECU):

    Method 2 (without opening the ECU):

Q: Is the ECU tested before shipping?
A: Yes, we do several tests before shipping. Here the list of tests and operations we do:

 

Q: How to get Bangs and Flames on launch cut and Flatshift?
A: The Antilag parameters need to be set. You can find it under Editor->RPM&Cuts->Antilag.
    There are 3 parameters.
    "activate xxx RPM before cut" ... the RPM Window. The Antilag parameters Fuel Multiplier and Ignition BTDC are
     only active xxx RPM before the ignition cut.
    This let the engine work with normal parameters until it comes close to the cut RPM. 300-500 RPM is a good value.
    "Fuel Multiplier" ... in the RPM window before cut this additional Fuel multiplier is used. Only change this if you're
    experienced with tuning, as altering the fuel too much can cause issues like lean combustion or damage to engine
    components.
    "set Ignition to (BTDC)" ... in the RPM window the ignition value is override with this parameter. Here you can try
    values like 5, 0, -5, -10, etc. and see what
    works best with your setup.
    CAUTION! This is not a toy. Wrong set parameters or excessively use can damage your engine, turbo and catalytic
    converter!

Immobilizer Bypass

Q: What is the right Immobilizer Bypass for my ECU/Car?
A: A rule of thumb is:
    1995-1999, mainly OBD1 and OBD2a ECUs: Mobilizer-A0
    1999-2000, OBD2b and S2000 ECUs: Mobilizer-FX01
    2001-2005 square ECUs with white connector: Swapbox-K
    2006-2011 flat ECU's with 3 big black connectors: Mobilizer-6

    Better is by looking at or inside the ECU which immobilizer system is installed.
    If you're still unsure you can send a picture of the ECU with cover removed (of course only with ECUs where you
    can remove the cover without breaking the sealing) and we'll assist you with the decision of the right immobilizer
    system.

COP1/COP2

Q: Is COP1/COP2 compatible with my ECU/Car?
A: COP1 is for the USDM and EDM OBD1 ECUs without knock sensor board installed.
    For the JDM OBD1 or OBD1 with knock sensor you can use the COP2.
    For oddball OBD1s (like the P9K) or other OBD2a and OBD2b ECUs you can use the COP2. First check in the
    installation instruction of the COP2 if your ECU board layout is covered. If you're still unsure make a picture
    of the ECU with cover removed and we'll see what the right system is for you.